How To Fall In Love With Paris: 7 Must Do One-Day Itineraries Part II

NOTE: This is Part II of a 2 part series…Itineraries 1-3 can be found here

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To help you enjoy the best that Paris has to offer I have put together my recommendations for 7 one-day itineraries. These itineraries are based on the ability to walk most places. You will need to modify if physically walking is difficult for you. If you need to need to use transport, opt for the Hop on Hop off buses ahead of the Metro as you still then get to see your surroundings as you travel. And if this is your first time in Paris you will need to prioritise more time to see the tourist icons than otherwise, but you should restrict yourself and choose just a few…don’t overload your days and squeeze out the time to wander. And then the bonus is that you will also handily have a great excuse to return for another trip to see the rest!

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So here are my next 4 recommended ways to while away your days in beautiful Paris guaranteed to make you fall in love with this stunning iconic city… Enjoy!

4. Eiffel Tower & Invalides

Highlights:

Eiffel Tower

Wandering the Rue Clare Street Markets

Picnic in Jardin du Trocadero

Hotel des Invalids

Musee Rodin Gardens + Hotel Biron

Pont Alexander III

OK, so no first trip to Paris is complete without a visit to the iconic Eiffel Tower! Whether you end up queuing to climb to the top or just take photo ops from below, this is simply a must. Your friends will not believe you have even been to Paris if there is not a photo of you standing in front of it. If you have been before and don’t need to rise to the giddy heights of the Eiffel’s summit, then enjoy the rest of this one at a more leisurely pace, taking time perhaps to explore one of the museums included, such as Hotel Biron or Hotel des Invalids, or even use it as a half day to combine with some hotel rest or perhaps a visit to the Lourve or one of the other museums outside of this zone that you are yet to visit.

 

Start your day at Jardin du Trocadero, just across the river from the most famous of all Paris icons, the Eiffel Tower. It creates a perfect spot where you can take that must of all Parisien photos all of your friends are waiting for. Then head across the Seine over the Pont d’Iena to the tower itself where you can head to the top if you are a first timer (be aware of queues…earlier in the day the better, and it is recommended to pre-purchase skip the line tickets), or just admire its construction from below and begin your stroll through the Parc du Champ de Mars. Here you could stop with a pre-packed picnic breakfast or morning tea, or head straight to the nearby street market to gather supplies for a return picnic later. The Rue Cler is the most famous street market in Paris, and well worth a visit. Cobbled streets brim with cafes, boulageries and specialty shops and it is authentically where the Parisian locals choose to find their fresh produce. It is also helpfully open all day Tuesday-Saturday and Sunday mornings.

Now that your appetite has been sated its time to get walking and discover 2 of Paris’s historic gems. First up is the Hotel des Invalides. Head to the end of the Parc to Avenue de la Motte Picquette where Ecole Militare stands formidably. Turning left you will follow the avenue around towards the Seine and the front of the Hotel des Invalides. It was originally a hospital built by Napoleon XIV for wounded soldiers, and houses various pieces of military significance. Highlights also include the tomb of Napoleon himself, as well as architectural sights such as the Golden Dome and the beautiful internal ceiling of the Dome Church.

Continue now to head around the other side of des Invalides to boulevard des Invalides which will take you to Musee Rodin, home of Rodin’s famous The Thinker sculpture nestled in the grounds of Hotel Biron. This once private garden is simply beautiful, and the smaller scale of it gives you a glimpse of life as one of Paris’s elite. If time permits you can visit the museum contained within the 18^th century mansion (Musee Rodin), or you can simply stroll through the gardens. There is a cute café nestled under the branching limbs of the stately lime trees within the garden which is a lovely spot for a coffee, or lunch if that times in well for you.

The final recommendation to complete your tour of this zone is to make your way back to the front of the Hotel des Invalides and to head down to the river from there to the Pont Alexander III, the most beautiful and iconic of Paris’ bridges. The views from here looking back to des Invalides as well as across the river towards the Grand and Petite Palais create wonderful moments worth capturing in a photo or two.

Feel free to reverse this itinerary if climbing the Tower is not on your agenda…just leave enough time for the market stalls and shops to be open in the afternoon. And for great gluten free option be sure to checkout my blog 40 Places to Eat Gluten Free in Paris.

 

5. Chateau de Versailles (full or half day trip)

Highlights:

Palace Tour (Queens Bedroom, Hall of Mirrors…)

Strolling or bike riding through the formal gardens

Picnic lunch in the palace grounds

Tour of the Marie-Antionette (Queens) Hamlet

Grand Trianon & Petit Trianon

ADD: Night concert at the palace or a Fountain Show

If you want to get a picture of the origins of true French style and the era of untold decadence and luxury, a day trip out to the Chateau de Versailles is a must. It is by far the best day trip from Paris. It is an easy 30 minute train ride away and is an inexpensive way to walk in the footsteps of French royalty. First constructed in 1664 by Louis XIV and later completed by his grandson Louis XVI its astonishing beauty and untold extravagance was one of the tipping points for the French Revolution. For anyone who loves history or just all things beautiful, a day wandering the stately rooms and gardens is one you will not forget. I recommend that you go on your own, as tours tend to have time limits that impede your ability to explore and take it all in, as well as adding extra cost, but if you’d prefer someone else to plan the details and get you there then there are many good tour companies to use. If you don’t have time for a full day trip, then you can still see the palace and have some time in the gardens in half a day.

It is recommended to make your way out to Versailles to be in line for opening of the palace at 9am. The RER train station is just a 10 minute walk from the Palace. Prebook your palace tickets (I recommend the Passport, from the Versailles website www.en.chateauversailles.fr ) to ensure early entry and the chance to beat the arrival of the tour buses. An audio guide can be purchased prior, which I recommend, or you can choose to have a local tour guide take you through. Highlights not to miss are the Queens Bedroom where young Marie-Antionette was subjected to the ridiculous formality of having the entire female court watch her wake and help her dress each morning, as well as the indignity of having the male court present as she gave birth. The furnishings and fabrics are astounding. You can see the disguised doors in the ornate paneling that helped her to escape to her more semi-private rooms.

The other main highlight of the palace not to miss is the Hall of Mirrors where grand state occasions were held, and the 1919 Treaty of Versailles was signed. It is mesmerizing in its scale and beauty. From the windows here you have a stunning view down to the formal gardens stretching to the distance. Also worth a visit are the Kings Bedroom, the Kings throne room (Salon d’Apollon), and the Chapelle Royale (private chapel for the royal family).

And now to the gardens.

Time to head out and explore, although it is probably a great time to first grab refreshments at either the Laduree café or Angelina’s café accessed via the Royal Courtyard or at the end of the Grand Apartments), or to find a spot to enjoy a pre-packed picnic that you brought along with you. (Note, if on a set half-day tour you are unlikely to have time to indulge in this experience).

Once rested and refueled, perhaps start with an exploration of the Orangerie off to the left, where the view from the main patio is beautiful, before strolling (or cycling…bicycles can be hired) the main avenue heading down to the Grand Canal where King Louie once enjoyed lavish boating parties (boats are available to hire), passing on your way the central Fountain of Latona, and the Formal Gardens and Colonnade hidden off to your left. There are various other cafes around the estate (near the Grand Canal and the Petite Trianon) where you can choose to grab lunch or a coffee to take with you to sit and enjoy the beautiful surroundings.

From here you can head over to the right to access the Estate of Trianon, which includes the Grand and Petit Trianons and Marie-Antoinette’s (The Queens) Hamlet. This area was where the royals were able to relax and play in a less formal and more intimate setting. It makes for a delightful afternoon (only open from 12 noon -5pm). The smaller scale setting of the beautiful buildings within their formal gardens, as well as the intimateness of the Queens Hamlet, where a lot of the education of the royal children took place, makes it easier to imagine the royals ‘doing life’ as it was for them back then. Again, a palace tour guide is available at a small cost (see their website), or you can wander on your own.

Versailles holds a special place in my heart. It is all things French. I loved it.

ADD: Night concert at the Royal Opera House or The Royal Chapel.

To REALLY experience the historic atmosphere of Versailles why not hang around for one of the sublime opera, ballet or gala performances that pay tribute to the era of artistic enlightenment under the reign of the Sun King (see their website for the annual programme www.en.chateauversailles.fr)

Please note the Chateau is closed Mondays.

 

6. Isle de la Cite & Marais

Highlights:

Notre Dame + Saint Chappel (Ile de la Cite)

Riverside strolling

Place des Vogues (oldest square)

Restaurant & foodie heaven (+ lots GF options)

ADD: Musee Carnavalet, Musee Cognacq-Jay and Musee Picasso

This is actually one of my all time favourite Paris walks. My husband and I did this on our first trip and I felt like I discovered the real heart of Paris. It involves gorgeous leisurely tree-lined walks along the Seine and through both the fascinating medieval streets of the Marais as well as those housing the more gentile residents of Paris with its many mansions and museums. Depending on how you tackle it, it can be a half-day meander or a full day indulgence of some of the best authentic cuisine Paris has to offer…this is where the Parisians come to dine and play. The Marais is simply beautiful.

Depending on whether you would like to see inside the identified museums, you could switch this one around (by hitting them first thing to avoid the crowds), but if you are happy to just view them from the street, then I suggest you start on Ile de la Cite so that you end your day in the restaurant heaven of the Marais itself.

The islands resting in the middle of this beautiful city feel magical. They were the centre of medieval Paris and ooze history and character. So standing on Pont Neuf, Paris’ oldest bridge built in 1607, is a perfect place to start your day. Surrounded by the Left Bank on one side, the imposing Lourve on the other, and the beautiful Saint Chapel in front with the river surrounding you on both sides…well, this is Paris. Place Daphne leads you to the gothic Saint Chapel, built in 1248, thought to be the most beautiful church in Paris with its 15 stained glass windows that soar upwards to its vaulted ceiling, and is well worth a visit.

Following the river-side streets around either side of the church you then hit pay dirt with the next spectacular sight of the imposing Cathedral of Notre-Dame, another gothic masterpiece with its iconic flying buttresses and gargoyles, and another must visit.

Time now to start your river-side meander in earnest by continuing across Pont St Louie to Ile St Louie, a prestige residential area of Paris with wall to wall beautiful mansions lining the Seine. It is tiny, but filled with quaint shops and galleries, so you can choose how much time to explore before eventually heading across the river into the Marais.

Now make your way via rue St Paul to Place des Vogues, the oldest square in Paris with its characteristic symmetrical two-toned brick mansions lining all four sides, home to Paris’ elite. The inner garden itself was once home to jousting tournaments but has now become an inner city refuge for Parisian locals. The cafes that fill the covered walkways surrounding the garden are a perfect place to grab a coffee or a bite to eat, and the grassed square a great spot for a rest, weather permitting.

The Marais itself is a more genteel residential area of Paris and is filled with many quality food shops and restaurants. Feel free to explore and even get a bit lost in the streets, stumbling across stunning patisserie, chocolatier or fromagerie window displays and quaint fruit stalls. Eventually though, find your way back to Rue des Francis Bourgeois which borders Place des Vogues, as it leads to 2 lovely small museums well worth a visit if you have time: Musee Carnavalet and Musee Cognacq-Jay. Both are dedicated to presenting the history of French life incorporating the 17^th and 18^th centuries. Further on, heading north through the Marais, you will come to the Musee Picasso on rue de Thorny which houses an extensive collection of his works.

If your accommodation is within this zone it is now time to head back to freshen up for dinner at one of the many great local restaurants (check local guides for recommendations near you). If you are coeliac, then there are fantastic options in this area which you can find in my blog 40 Places to Eat Gluten Free in Paris.

  

7. Opera + Montmarte

   

Highlights:

Opera Garnier

Galleries La Fayette + Printemps

Sacre Coeur + Montmarte

ADD: Ballet/Opera performance at Opera Garnier or Cabaret Show in Montmarte

This is the one area of Paris I am yet to visit, so I am just going to share with you my intended itinerary for when I visit in September! I’m not sure why it has taken me so long to wander the streets of Montmarte, climb the steps of the Sacre Coeur or be mesmerized by the ornate coloured central glass domes of the of the beautiful department stores that stand in acknowledgment of a different era, but maybe it is because it is generally further from the river and most of the other iconic landmarks, so my determination to avoid the metro as much as possible has probably had a lot to do with it. But this time I plan to stay in the Opera area, so the walk east through the 9^th arrondissment all the way to Sacre Coeur should not feel overwhelming. The walk from the Opera district to the Sacre Coeur takes about 25 minutes, and is uphill, so good walking shoes are recommended for this itinerary, particularly if you are starting from further afield.

My plan for the day will start with a breakfast at one of the many great cafes in the Opera area, focusing on the streets around the Opera Garnier. For the coeliacs amongst us this is the start of the gluten free foodie district, so the choice can either be Helmut Newcake or Noglu, or Chez Alain Miam Miam whose buckwheat pancakes are worth the walk (read my Paris Gluten Free Blog for more great gluten free food options). How you plan your day from here though will depend on which options for this itinerary you choose, so I will present my recommended experiences for you to organize into a day/night plan that best suits your needs.

A visit to the Opera Garnier is well worth it…it is a simply stunning building that today still holds beautiful opera and ballet performances. I did make it to the outside of this Paris icon on my last trip, but as it was Paris Fashion week it was sadly closed to public viewing to allow for a fashion show. If the Opera program works with your itinerary I highly recommend trying to schedule a night to get dressed up to experience a cultural performance as they were meant to be in a ridiculously opulent setting. Otherwise visit this beautiful building first thing after breakfast, taking a tour inside to view the spectacular central staircase where royalty and the rich and famous have ascended in eras past and present. Then it is time to wander up the grand Boulevard Haussman, home to the two famous Parisian department stores Printemps and Galleries La Fayette. As mentioned, even if you are not wanting to lose precious hours in Paris to shopping, both are worth a visit to appreciate their spectacular architectural design by taking coffee or lunch in one of their central cafes or restaurants.

It is now time to make your way through the Pigalle area to the bohemian centre of Paris, Montmarte. This is where the raw culture of Paris was birthed, from the painters to the more risqué arts of cabaret. Gone are the wide boulevards and formal architecture, replaced by winding cobbled streets ascending and skirting the hill to the west of the Paris where the Sacre Coeur proudly sits. This is your ultimate destination by about late afternoon. Climbing the steps to view sunset over Paris is one of those moments worth pursuing. Be prepared however for crowds of tourists, and quite a few hawkers and some of the more unsavoury elements that distract to pick pockets. If you get there early enough you can take the time to tour inside the church and admire the beautiful arched vaults of the crypt.

From here you can head to one of the nearby cabaret shows, the Moulin Rouge of course being the most well-known, or other wise to some of the good eats nearby. If the area at night perhaps feels a little less comfortable for you than central Paris, grab a taxi and you can finish with a meal closer to your hotel.

If you do however plan to finish with a performance at the Opera Garnier, rather than say a Montmarte cabaret show, then you could reverse this itinerary and head for Sacre Coeur first thing after breakfast, which will also beat the crowds to this iconic landmark.

I am visiting Paris in September so will update with some more detail after then, but if you beat me there I would love to hear how you navigated this area of Paris, and whether my suggestions worked well!

So there you have it…7 great ways to fill wonderful days languishing in the romance, beauty & culture of all that Paris has to offer. And don’t forget to check out Part I (Iineraries 1-3) if you started with this blog.

I would love to hear your feedback on what experiences you most enjoyed about your time in Paris in the Comments below.  Jane x