How to Fall in Love with Paris: 7 Must-Do One-Day Itineraries Part I
Paris stole my heart 10 years ago. My first trip there, with my first actual engagement with a real life French person IN Paris (the taxi driver, who actually understood my fledgling first attempt to speak French), and my first coffee at a Parisian outdoor café in a very French royal garden, are indelibly printed on my psyche. There is no other city in the world that delivers romance, beauty and elegance so so well. Why then, do so many people have a negative experience of this beautiful city? It’s because they do it all wrong. And viewing yourself as a tourist with a long list of the top tourist icons to tick off in the shortest time possible is the best way to spoil your experience. So let me help you to plan your next trip so that you too can fall in love with Paris.
The key to enjoying Paris is to allow yourself plenty of time to wander, to stroll like a local, to enjoy the gardens, to chill at a café and people watch, or to sit by a fountain and read a book while you sip on a coffee. If you have an agenda to cram in all of the tourist highlights and leave no time for anything else, you will miss the heart of Paris. So my first recommendation is to stay as central as your budget with allow. The less time you spend on the Metro and the more time strolling the streets, the more you will be exposed to the romance of Paris and less to the grimy underbelly that puts so many people off.
My picks of areas to stay are the 1st & 2nd Arrondissments (Tuileries/Opera Quarters), the Left Bank (St Germain des Pres/Luxembourg/Latin Quarters), or possibly the Marais. From each you can literally walk to most that Paris has to offer, with a minimal amount of public transport needed for some of the further places of interest. You want to be able to walk home (back to your hotel) from where you choose to visit or dine, especially at night, which is when the City of Lights really comes into its (romantic) own. If, like me, you are coeliac, then the 1st & 2nd Arrondissments, the Marais (bit further out) or the Left Bank should be your pick of areas to set up camp as nearly all of the newly popping up gluten-free cafes are converging on these zones within the Paris metro area, so you will be within walking distance of the best gluten-free eats to be found…and there are some definitely worth searching out so that you do not miss out on that exquisite ‘oh so Parisian’ experience of indulging in gorgeously crafted cakes, baguettes & croissants, and a crepe or two. See 40 Places to Eat Gluten Free in Paris for more detail on where to find the best gluten free eats in this beautiful city.
To help you enjoy the best that Paris has to offer I have put together my recommendations for 7 one-day itineraries. These itineraries are based on the ability to walk most places. You will need to modify if physically walking is difficult for you. If you need to need to use transport, opt for the Hop on Hop off buses ahead of the Metro as you still then get to see your surroundings as you travel. And if this is your first time in Paris you will need to prioritise more time to see the tourist icons than otherwise, but you should restrict yourself and choose just a few…don’t overload your days and squeeze out the time to wander. And then the bonus is that you will also handily have a great excuse to return for another trip to see the rest!
- Tuileries
Highlights:
Angelina’s Restaurant
Jardin des Tuileries
Palais Royale
Place Vendome
Laduree & Hediard foodie moments in Place de la Madeleine
Sunset dinner at the Lourve
After dinner drinks in Bar Hemingway at the Ritz
ADD: Lourve or L’Orangerie museum visits
This is my favourite area as it encapsulates all that I love about Paris: the beauty of the architecture, the gardens and the people themselves. This is called the 1st arrondissment for a reason…it is the centre and heart of the elegant city. It is no surprise that some of the city’s most elite hotels are located here (eg. The Ritz, Hotel deCrillion & Le Meurice) and of course some of the most historically significant buildings such as the Lourve, the Palais Royale and Opera Garnier, and of course all beautifully backdropped by the Tuileries Garden and the Seine River. It also takes in the grand rue Saint Honore, where many of the worlds most elite designer stores are represented such as Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga & Gucci, and Place Vendome, home of Tiffany’s flagship store, Chanel & Cartier. This zone is where the people watching is rewarded with such sights as models posing with their camera entourages in front of elegant mansions and landmarks, or tottering in their 6 inch stilettos along the Tuileries pathways chasing their little enfants (true story during fashion week!), or just observing the simply elegant locals strolling through the garden with their puppies or spending family time doing what the French love to do in their beautiful parks.
Start your day with breakfast at Angelina’s on Rue de Rivoli opposite the Tuileries (where famously Audrey Hepburn was a frequent diner). Their eggs benedict and hot chocolate are legendary. Purchase some of their delectable treats to take with you and head for the Palais Royale, a former royal palace, where you can wander through the beautiful formal interior garden with striking modern art works. Double back slightly to find rue
Saint Honour where you can indulge in some window shopping & admire the meticulously beautiful window displays of the designer shops. Turn right to head into Place Vendome, home of the Ritz Carlton and Tiffany’s flagship shop in Paris. This historic square has been the scene of many a grand royal occasion and you might even manage some celebrity spotting.
Connect then back to Rue Saint Honour until you come to Place de la Madeleine, home of the most
prodigious food speciality shops (epicures) in Paris, such as Fauchon & Hediard, where you can enjoy a light lunch or just morning tea and some people watching at a street side café. There is a gorgeous flower market here as well…one of my most memorable moments was choosing a bouquet of flowers and carrying them in my arms for the rest of the walk until I was able to pop them in a vase back at the hotel later…so romantic!
Head now back down rue Royale toward place de la Concorde, the monument of the Revolution, a moment in time which did not end so well for King Louie XVI and his glamorous wife Marie Antionette. On your way you will pass Laduree, home of the best French macarons sold in THE most spectacular packaging. You can choose to lunch here if you didn’t earlier, or just indulge in the colourful little parcels of joy. Be prepared to queue for these treats as they are very popular and make sure you buy extras to take with you to enjoy with a coffee in the Jardin des Tuileries on your way back, my favourite garden in Paris, which you will now connect with as you head back in the direction of the Lourve. So, time now to stroll, or take a seat & 
people watch while you enjoy your patisserie treats. With the Seine on one side, the beautiful Haussman buildings on the other (one housing the 5 star Hotel de Crillion), the Lourve in front and the Grand & Petite Palais’ behind, this is a magical walk. If time allows you could venture inside the Musee Orangerie located within the Tuileries, which houses Impressionist collections including Monet’s famous Waterlily canvases, as well as some more modern works such as Picasso.
It is time now to take a breather and head back to your hotel to rest and prepare for dinner. My favourite dinner experience locally is to head to Le Café Marly, housed in the northern wing of the Lourve itself with covered verandah tables overlooking the inner courtyard and its glass pyramid. Weather permitting, the colours produced by the setting sun reflecting off the glass panes of the pyramid create a ‘pinch me’ moment. The café/restaurant itself is a popular haunt of the fashion set, so be sure to book ahead for a table with a view
of the pyramid. Wandering the courtyard after your meal provides many gorgeous photo moments. While they did cater well for gluten free here when we visited, it is not necessary coeliac safe, so perhaps confirm their kitchen practices on booking, or maybe just have sunset drinks and then seek out an alternative for some good GF food (refer to my blog 40 Places to Eat Gluten Free in Paris for up to date options). One warning is that you may encounter the increasing number of hawkers that can hassle tourists on the steps leading to the courtyard. Usually polite but firm responses are suffice to dissuade them.
And to finish off your day why not head back to the Bar Hemingway at The Ritz in Place Vendome where the literary legend himself use to frequent for a magical moment connecting with history in one of the most ‘ritziest’ spots in Paris (pun intended!). They also offer a gluten free dessert or two in their beautiful Bar Vendome, which I plan to taste test on my next trip!
ADD: If you haven’t been before, try to make time to visit the Lourve itself. You can give yourself a morning for this (to beat the crowds), or a full day. Recommended to include a look of the Kings (Napoleon III) apartments on the first floor (particularly if you don’t manage to make it out to the Palais du Versailles for Itinerary 5)
- Luxemburg Gardens + Pantheon
Highlights:
Jardin du Luxembourg
Café Les Deux Magots + Café Flore
Shakespear and Co bookshop
Christian Constant chocolatier
Pierre Hermes cakes
Sorbonne University
Pantheon
Visit a street market (rue Mouffetard)
Stroll riverside booksellers & stalls
ADD: Musee d‘Orsay visit
The Left Bank is a great one to visit for first timers to Paris because it embodies so many different facets of the Parisien experience…from the street café culture around Boulevard St Germain to the bustle of the city’s intellectual generations as they gather around the Sorbonne University in the Latin Quarter, and the quintessential French elegant beauty of the Palais Luxembourg and its formal gardens. This was where I fell in love with Paris. Our first accommodation was near the Sorbonne, and immediately upon arrival I dragged my husband out to the Luxembourg Gardens for a coffee at the quaint outdoor café within the park. With a back drop of Parisians playing happy families and sunning themselves beside the beautiful central lake and fountain, it rained autumn leaves down on us at our little café table as the rude waiter served us horrible, over priced coffee (we hadn’t yet learnt how to order coffee the way we liked it), and I LOVED it. I was in PARIS! So please make time for this gem of a district.
NOTE: that first experience was the ONLY time a French waiter or service person has ever been rude to me…launching in with my rudimentary Bonjour! Comment allez-vous? wins them over every time, even though I have to immediately then ask Parlez-vous anglais? as I virtually cannot understand a word spoken in return.
A full day in the Left Bank must start with a market visit, so I recommend heading for the street market in Place Maubert before linking with the nearby Rue Mouffetard market to stroll the narrow street filled with produce and specialty shops as it winds down the hill. Here you can breakfast at a café or grab some supplies to enjoy later with a coffee when you make your way back to Jardin du Luxembourg. First though venture back up hill towards the Pantheon where I recommend you wander inside to appreciate the beauty of its central dome and murals. A climb to the galleries immediately below the dome is rewarded with great views over Paris.
From here it is an easy walk to the Jardin du Luxembourg, where you can revisit my first café experience, or grab a coffee and enjoy a picnic as you people watch. Every iconic Paris park moment is fulfilled here, from the chairs and lounges surrounding the central lake and fountain, to the café, the locals enjoying themselves, the gorgeous flower beds and of course the beautiful architecture of the Palace as your backdrop. Stay as long as time permits.
When you feel ready to move on its time to head towards the hustle and bustle of busy Boulevard Saint Michel for some tourist orientated-shopping or to just stroll. Both this boulevard and that of boulevard Saint Germain capture the iconic Parisian street elegance of the movies, with each side flanked by the grand Haussman buildings distinctive to Paris. They make great photo opportunities, particularly once you venture all the way to the end of boulevard Saint Michel to Place Saint Michel opposite the Seine. And
for chocolate lovers I highly recommend a slight detour east to the best chocolatier in Paris, Christian Constant, who has recently moved his premises to 40 rue des Ecoles, before then continuing towards the river along Rue Saint-Jacques.
Just before you hit the Seine, booklovers will want to visit the famous Shakespeare & Co bookshop, on Rue de Bucherie, delightfully included in the movie Midnight in Paris, where the literary heritage & atmosphere of the left bank of Paris comes to life. Here you can take a moment to get lost in the world of literature, nestled within one of their worn leather sofas in a hidden nook, surrounded by one the best collections of French and English books in France. They also now have a cute connected café where you can find American style baked goods, and vegan and gluten free dishes.
It is now time to stroll along the Seine heading west, browsing at the many booksellers and artist stands that form permanent fixtures river-side. Also, very Paris! Once you reach rue Bonaparte I recommend you head back in the direction of Boulevard St Michel for some lunch or afternoon tea, depending on your timing, at one of the famous cafes where the literary noteables of the times gathered to solve the mysteries of life: Café Flore or Café de Magots. Both provide quintessential Parisian street café moments.
And lastly, if you have time, continue south along rue Bonaparte where a labyrinth of small side streets are filled with treasures of residential and authentic retail Paris. Your ultimate destination however is Pierre Hermes Paris, one of the city’s finest patisseries, with spectacular cake displays and legendary macarons. The bonus of walking Paris is that you end up covering a lot of territory so rewarding yourself with both cake and chocolate throughout the day can be guilt free!
ADD: Musee d‘Orsay late in the afternoon if you are an art lover. There is a great collection of Impressionists (amongst others) housed here and it is well worth a visit.
After a freshen up at your hotel, if you have don’t have much room left for a full dinner, why not head out to a cute nearby restaurant for just wine, cheese and baguettes. Very French!
- Champs Elysee
Highlights:
Climb to the top of Arc de Triomphe
Grand Palais + Petite Palais
Stroll the Champs Elysees
High Tea at Le Bristol
Meal/drinks at Four Seasons George V
Pont Alexander III
This one is where you get to literally walk in the footsteps of the rich and famous, and while staying in the luxurious 5 star hotels of Paris such as Le Bristol or George V might be somewhat out of your reach (per night rates might total your entire trips’ accommodation budget!), you can enter this world but for a moment…the ability to dress up is required however…sneakers and backpacks not ideal for this one. And you get to see and experience some of Paris’s iconic landmarks.
Begin your day at Place de la Concorde for a beautiful morning stroll through the Jardin des Champs-Elysees, before venturing to your left onto avenue William Churchill to view the stunning belle epoch Grand Palais and its smaller twin the Petite Palais. Continue back to the end of the garden and detour left at this point to stroll avenue Montaigne, where you will find the flagship stores of the world’s top designers such as Chanel, Dior, Prada and Valentino. If the budget allows you can head around the corner along Av George V to the hotel of the same name where lunch on the elegant terrace of their beautiful L’Orangerie restaurant is a memorable experience. Otherwise, after indulging in some window shopping on Av Montaigne and perhaps a stop at a café to refresh and possibly spot a celebrity or two, double back to return to the famous Avenue des Champs Elsysees to begin your stroll towards the Arc de Triumph. Take your time to enjoy a taste of somewhat more affordable shopping here, or grab a bite to eat and people watch as the well-heeled of Paris (& many many tourists) indulge in the finer things of life.
Continue on to the upper end of the avenue to make your way to the Arc de Triumph where a climb to the top is a must. Sitting within one of the busiest intersections in Paris, access is via stairs and passages below the street, and then a steep climb up internal stairs of the arch. The view from here is breathtaking, and one of my favourites, where you can see down the 12 beautiful avenues that branch off from its centre. It affords great views of both the Sacre Coeur and the Eiffel Tower.
Now head along Avenue de Friedland and then into Rue de Faubourg Saint Honore (or go back via the Champs Elysees & any of the intersecting streets such as Rue La Boelie). Here you will come to the hotel Le Bristol where taking afternoon High Tea is a must. Le Bristol is one of the signature luxury hotels of Paris, featured in my favourite movie Midnight in Paris. The interiors and the inner courtyard are the epitome of French elegance, yours to enjoy for a much smaller price than that of the overnight guests! Be sure to book ahead.
If you continue down rue de Faubourg Saint Honore you will come to Palais de l’Elysee, which has been home to the French presidents since 1848. Turn into avenue de Marigny to intersect the top end of the Jardin des Champs-Elysees, close to where you began your day, a perfect spot to have a rest and enjoy the view. From here make your way back to your hotel to refresh and get ready for your pre-dinner drinks at the earlier mentioned prestigious Four Seasons George V Hotel in La Galerie, linked to their spectacular restaurant L’Orangerie overlooking a stunning inner courtyard. This is where the rich and famous come to dine, so dress appropriately if you don’t want to stand out as a tourist. If your budget allows, why not stay for dinner in one of their three Michelin Star restaurants (must pre book), otherwise you can make your way back to the Av des Champs-Elysees or surrounding streets for many great dining experiences on offer. I highly recommend you finish your evening with a stroll back towards the Seine where you can wander along its banks and be captivated by Paris at night. Paris is not nicknamed the City of Lights for no reason. A must is to finish at Pont Alexandre III, one of Paris’ iconic bridges, which can deliver that quintessential Paris at night moment.
For more itineraries that will have you dreaming about your next trip to the City of Light go to How to Fall in Love with Paris: 7 Must-Do One-Day Itineraries Part II
And if you are after gluten free eats in Paris check out my blog 40 Places to Eat Gluten Free in Paris for suggestions of over 40 places to find those quintessential Parisien foodie moments (think… croissant, baguette, macarons and beautifully crafted cakes and chocolate!) so you can enjoy them like everyone else!
I’d love to hear about your favourite things to do in Paris in the Comments below! Jane x
